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Post Info TOPIC: Basic Application and Seal Leak


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Basic Application and Seal Leak
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Read the FAQ's and tried a search with out any luck finding an answer to my question. I have a 1990 Volvo 745Ti with 280K km (~175K mi) that has a significant leak. Should I go with the full 12 oz as per the basic application or 2 oz/quart (8 oz for this motor) as per the seal leak application? The clean/rinse phase mileages are the same either way, and as I am over a 100K with a seal leak I plan on repeating the clean and rinse cycles. Right now I am thinking of tossing in the extra 4 oz as it can't hurt anything??

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woodenshoes,

Below are the instructions but since your engine has over 100K miles I would do 2 cleanings and rinse cycles and this will give the seals a good cleaning also you want to use (non-synthetic) oil. I had to go 2 oil changes after cleaning with non synthetic oil before my seal stopped leaking that was 3 years still no leak.

Daryl

First, change your motor oil and filter. Add 2 ounces of Auto-Rx® for each quart of oil your engine holds.

Auto-Rx® works best with conventional (non-synthetic) motor oil. If you feel you must use a synthetic motor oil, we recommend using a Group III oil to avoid competing chemistries.

Drive 2,500 miles, then change your oil and filter again, but do not add Auto-Rx® or any other additive. It is important that you use non-synthetic oil during this phase. Drive an additional 3,000 miles, then change your oil and filter again.

Vehicles with over 100,000 miles require a second application. Repeat the instructions outlined above.

Leak should stop within the next 3,000 miles. Application is finished when leak stops. Returning to synthetic oil may cause the leak to return.

We recommend that you follow up your treatment by going on the Auto-Rx® Maintenance Plan. Do not begin an Auto-Rx® maintenance plan until the rotating seal leak has stopped.


-- Edited by dbdeland on Thursday 28th of May 2009 04:34:16 PM

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Thanks for the quick reply Daryl. You say to use the 2 oz/quart application as per the seal leak application, what is difference between doing a seal leak and a basic application that requires the full 12 oz? How do you decide which method overrides the other in this instance?

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The rinse instructions. Seal Leaks require longer rinse . You might want to revisit application section for new dosage suggestions.

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I just re-read the instructions for both Basic and Seal Leak applications, 2500 mi clean and 3000 mi rinse for both, the only difference I can see is my initial question which was do I use 8 oz or 12 oz of ARX?? The way I am reading the instructions all that is different for the Seal Leak application is that it may take longer in to the rinse phase for the leak to stop.

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Here are the Auto-Rx Treat Rates as of 4 days ago There on the website.

Engine Oil Capacity Auto-Rx® Amount to Add
3 quarts Approx. ¾ bottle
4 quarts Approx. ¾ bottle
5 quarts 1 full bottle
6 quarts 1 full bottle
7 to 12 quarts 2½ oz. per quart up to 2 bottles

FYI Each bottle contains 12 ounces.

Stopping a seal leak takes in your case two applications of cleaning and rinsing. Just like a normal application. When they are complete you will need to add fresh non synthetic oil (no Auto-Rx or any other product) and drive for an additional 3000 miles. Some where between 0 & 3000 miles leak will stop. if you go to synthetic oil after leak has stopped or some solvent or such product leak will start again.

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Frank Miller wrote:

Here are the Auto-Rx Treat Rates as of 4 days ago There on the website.

Engine Oil Capacity Auto-Rx® Amount to Add
3 quarts Approx. ¾ bottle
4 quarts Approx. ¾ bottle
5 quarts 1 full bottle
6 quarts 1 full bottle
7 to 12 quarts 2½ oz. per quart up to 2 bottles

FYI Each bottle contains 12 ounces.

Stopping a seal leak takes in your case two applications of cleaning and rinsing. Just like a normal application. When they are complete you will need to add fresh non synthetic oil (no Auto-Rx or any other product) and drive for an additional 3000 miles. Some where between 0 & 3000 miles leak will stop. if you go to synthetic oil after leak has stopped or some solvent or such product leak will start again.



Thanks Frank, I see where I overlooked the extra 3000 miles after the 2 clean/rinse cycles. I must be blind or dumb as I all I can find for the seal leak treatment amounts is 2 oz/quart and not the list you provided above. Not a problem as I've got it figured out I just don't see it anywhere on the site.

One last question before I go away confuse, how is the engine cleaning affected when the seal leak volume of 8 oz (in my case) is used as opposed to the full 12 oz bottle called for when following the basic application?

 



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I did 2,800 miles on a clean and running the rinse now..I only had a small leak and ARX stopped it during the clean part. Amazing it stopped a cam or crank seal leak..It made be trust the stuff.

-- Edited by sludge on Friday 29th of May 2009 03:27:38 PM

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"One last question before I go away confuse, how is the engine cleaning affected when the seal leak volume of 8 oz (in my case) is used as opposed to the full 12 oz bottle called for when following the basic application?"


It can be confusing and sometimes the instructions seem in conflict. That's because there are many size sumps.

The basic deal is to throw in a bottle and drive 2500 ..change ..3000...change (add) 2500...change 3000 ..change .......3000

The dose is just a fine tuning to the sump size. It's a compromise between capacity of the oil as a carrier and physical swept area of the engine ......AND the time frame it's going to be used over ..and the target goal. Most of these fall into the same mileage and dosage confines ..but some do not.

Take the Fast Track method. Double dose for less mileage. Limited goal.


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geeaea wrote:

"One last question before I go away confuse, how is the engine cleaning affected when the seal leak volume of 8 oz (in my case) is used as opposed to the full 12 oz bottle called for when following the basic application?"


It can be confusing and sometimes the instructions seem in conflict. That's because there are many size sumps.

The basic deal is to throw in a bottle and drive 2500 ..change ..3000...change (add) 2500...change 3000 ..change .......3000

The dose is just a fine tuning to the sump size. It's a compromise between capacity of the oil as a carrier and physical swept area of the engine ......AND the time frame it's going to be used over ..and the target goal. Most of these fall into the same mileage and dosage confines ..but some do not.

Take the Fast Track method. Double dose for less mileage. Limited goal.




Thanks, great explanation clap.gif



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