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Question on auto-rx
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I just ordered 6 bottles for my two cars.  One of mine is 95,000 miles, so I'm planning on doing one clean/rinse cycle.  The other car is a Toyota Sienna, which has the engine known for sludge problems.  I don't notice any signs of sludging, but I'm going to run two clean/rinse cycles since the directions say that cars over 100,000 miles should get two cleanings.

My question is that I just put new Mobil 1 EP oil in my car with 95,000 miles on it.  Can I just add the auto-rx for the clean cycle, or do I need to drain and refill with conventional for the clean cycle?  I already have just enough conventional oil and a filter for the rinse cycle.

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shmget,

Thank you for purchasing Auto-Rx. No need to change your oil just add ARX.  
With mobil 1EP I would add an extra 500 miles to your cleaning phase and follow the instructions.

Daryl 

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Thanks.  I don't suspect any sludge in my engines, so I should just do the RX for dirty engines instructions, right?  So I'm going to add Auto-RX and then wait 3000 miles to drain the Mobile 1 EP and Auto-RX, and then do a rinse with my conventional oil for 3000 miles, right?

I bought extra bottles since I plan on doing maintenance doses.

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right, conventional for the rinse

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2001 Ford Ranger, 4.0 V6.
Mobil 1 0w-30, Motorcraft FL 820s filter, 3oz Auto Rx


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I'm 300 miles into the clean phase. I'm noticing the car is starting to idle rough less than before. What in an engine in terms of deposits causes rough idle? I thought it was caused by bad wires and plugs?

I did notice my transmission is leaking a little. It is a little overfilled. Could that be the problem, or maybe seals are starting to go? In any case, I'm wondering if  Auto-RX would help my transmission? It doesn't shift hard, and there is no indication anything is wrong, just a small puddle under the car in the morning.

-- Edited by shmget at 10:29, 2008-06-24

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One of the first areas to get cleaned up by ARX is the ring packs. Most likely yours were sticking a bit. Now that the cleaning process has started your engine is running smoother as a result.

Your leaking transmission might be nothing more than a pan gasket that needs to tightend or replaced. You would need to identify where the leak is coming from before you can determine how to fix it. Your transmision would benefit from an ARX treatment even if the leak is an issue you have to deal with seperately. A clean transmission is one that will operate smoother and last longer.

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I used a flashlight and looked under the hood tonight.  It appears that it is probably an oil leak about 1/2 way up the engine on the right side (when in front of the car).  It is dripping onto the top of the transmission, which is why I thought it was my transmission.  I'm seeing the oil is on some hoses too.

Is this normal?  From reading other's experiences, it looks like during the rinse phase things may dry up?  Does anyone have any advice, other than to keep checking the oil periodically?

I would say I'm dripping a puddle about 4-5 inches in diameter every night.

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I would first change the PCV valve. If the oil leak persists you will need to replace your valve cover gaskets. I assume that's where the leak is originating. ARX has the ability to restore rotating seals. Valve cover gaskets get hard over time, need to replace periodically.

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I changed the PCV valve.  I didn't notice any improvement.  I did see where the leak is coming from.  The oil pressure sending unit on the front of the engine is dripping.  I tightened it a little bit.  If this doesn't help, I'll just buy another sending unit.  I've heard they can leak.  I'm glad it isn't the seals.

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I did this and it has worked, where your sending unit screws into the engine block get some high temp rtv and go around where the threads meet the block, this should work, mine has been o.k. for 5 years and still no leaks.

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shmget wrote:

I changed the PCV valve. I didn't notice any improvement. I did see where the leak is coming from. The oil pressure sending unit on the front of the engine is dripping. I tightened it a little bit. If this doesn't help, I'll just buy another sending unit. I've heard they can leak. I'm glad it isn't the seals.



If you can take it out.  Take it out, clean the threads, put the Permatex Hi Temp Thread sealer.  About 2/3rd from the top.  Leave the 1/3rd without sealant.  Put it back on.  Should fix it properly.

 



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  • 1995 GMC Suburban 6.5 Turbo Diesel 99k miles (ARX finished)
  • 2000 Toyota Camry around 153K miles (ARX finished)
  • Both on maintenance dose


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It turns out that the leak was through the plastic cover on the unit, not the threads.  I bought a new unit and put it in, now there are no leaks.   I'll post again when I drain the oil & Auto-RX in 2600 miles.

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I just wanted to post another update. I'm 600 miles into the cleaning, and I'm finding now that my engine is very quiet. It sounds and feels much smoother than it used to be, even though I don't think there were problems (my gas milage was good and the car was running pretty well overall). I'm really looking forward to getting through the treatment, as I'm sure it will help the car run even better.

I just put a bottle of Auto-RX into my 98 Sienna the other day. I'm going to run two cleaning phases with it, since it has 135,000 miles. Like the Camry, this van doesn't have any real issues that I can tell, but since it is known to be a 'sludge engine' (1MZ-FE), I'm going to do the treatments to make sure I don't have any problems.

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