im seeing alot of info on this site about penzoil platinum? what is it a good oil or something? i thought between over the counters it was mobil 1 and valvoline syn? whats the deal with all the hype on penzoil? im about to order a bottle of rx to. whats a good oil to use for both phases?
You can use PP during the clean rinse but it would be better to use a dino oil for both phases(maximum effectiveness). Use anything really..... Pennzoil YB, supertech, valvoline, Mobil Clean 5000, etc.
As for Pennzoil Platinum, yes it is a very good oil. Mobil 1 and Valvoline are good as well although I would choose PP over both of them.
Check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums Check out the UOA section and that will give you an idea of why people like PP, plus it is priced nicely at Wal Mart (I believe 23.00 for a 5qt Jug).
Your correct i wonder why some people buy a group 5 synthetic. ? Oil can only deliver benefits if it has CLEAN METAL to lubricate.
So when you read that Auto-Rx and Castrol GTX can out perform much more expensive oils it is because the engines internals are clean to begin with.
Dyson Oil Analysis's located on www.auto-rx.com prove this point as posts on this board do.
A few words about the newest rage which is oil's that claim to stop contaminants including sludge. Think about it how important is it to stop the above, if you can't safely remove it ?
I think that PP has gotten alot of press here inadvertantly. There are alot of folks that will not run dino oil in their motors. This may due to it being a sludge proned design. Or it may be a turbo or may be in real frigid climate. PP or any Group III has bridged a gap with these customers. Still basically a dino, but better refined. But to think PP or any group III is going to do any real cleaning of a dirty motor is false. I am still a Pennsoil Yellow bottle fan, personally. But that is mostly due to convenience.
To answer the original question, I would also recommend running a mineral oil in the proper weight and viscosity designed for your motor. This would be for both phases, cleaning and rinse. There is likely many brands to choose from. Think cheap, think conventional oil. First of all the cleaning phase is for only 2500 miles. Why spend any more money than you have to on a 2500 mile oil change interval. When it comes to the rinse phase, another 3000 mile short OCI, I recommend the same.
It is particularly important to run a conventional oil during this 3000 mile rinse. Reason being is that for contaminants to rinse off metal surfaces a simple mineral oil with no polar properties works best. Most full synthetics and semi-synthetics contain polar ingredients. By polar meaning having an attraction to ferrous metals in particular. This does not bode as well for rinsing.
When you come right down to it, it is more important to run conventional or a group III, if you must, during the rinse, as opposed to the cleaning phase.
