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Post Info TOPIC: Dirty Oil and Carbon in Filter of Polaris Engine
belcjl


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Dirty Oil and Carbon in Filter of Polaris Engine
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I purchased a heavily used 2007 700cc Polaris recently. When I changed oil, I found that the oil was extremely dark and dirty. When I removed the filter, there were little pieces of carbon, I guess (it was hard, dark and crumbled when squeezed, looks like what I imagine oil that was never changed and ran hard would look like). I can see a little more in the port from the filter to the sump of the engine.

My question revolve around how best to handle this? It is obvious to me the previous owner hardly ever, if ever, changed the oil. I would like to clean this sucker up and try to keep from having to get a new engine. Polaris recommends 0-40w synthetic in their engines.

What is the best course of action here?

I have contemplated multiple oil changes over the next week with just 10 minutes run time or so per.

Thanks in advance

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rayhell


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Hi, those carbon particles are quite common and they usually come from the ring pack areas. Heat and pressure burns oil into carbon and particles are making their way to the pan and filter. I guess you refer to carbon particles like these:
http://arxco.no/images/slagg_i_filter1.jpg
http://arxco.no/images/slagg_i_filter2.jpg


Just follow the Sludge instructions (http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/heavy_sludge_app.html) and it will take care of the carbon around the piston rings.

Regards,
Ray.

-- Edited by rayhell on Monday 28th of December 2009 03:06:54 PM

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Raymond Hellberg Norwegian Auto-RX Dealer
belcjl


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Yes they are like that but they have condensed into large chunks about as big around as a nickel and 2 nickels thick.

I see one chunk in the pan and am considering flushing straight oil into the filter port to try and simply push or float some of these chunks out of the pan, out the oil plug.

Once I get these large chunks out, then I will start an Auto RX treatment.

Had a fellow tell me to be extremely cautious with any additive in small engines for 4 wheelers like this. His concern was the extremely thin cylinder walls that are common in these engines.

Anyone have any experience treating ATV or 4 wheeler engines? The problem is also that you don't tend to run these engines a lot. What protocol should I use?

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geeaea


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While I don't specifically know about ATV engines, there's tons of use in motor cycle engines ..which should be the same basic deal. Excellent results.

http://www.auto-rx.com/cycle-rx/index.html

-- Edited by geeaea on Wednesday 30th of December 2009 12:41:58 AM

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Richone


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Auto-Rx does work quite quickly on stuck or coked up piston rings. My guess is that you likely run higher rpms during operation than a car motor. I would guess that your oil change intervals are determined by hours of operation. I would think that 20 hours or so would clean up those ring packs. I would use the product at a rate of 2 to 2.5 fluid ounces per quart of sump size.

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