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Post Info TOPIC: info needed please


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hello,

i started a basic phase but i got so busy that i did not change oil or filter for over 5000 miles.ever since i had it in there it has been great.i noticed when i finally had time and remebered i had a-rx in there i changed it.and when i did change it i noticed my oil pressure dropped to almost nothing after.and it felt like it was heavy of engine sludge,lack of power and just felt sloppy.
also i did not do a rinse phase because i forgot i had the a-rx in.

so i had another bottle of a-rx and dumped it in after a week and within a day my oil pressure goes back up to where it is supposed to be.my oil leaks started to slow down alot.

can anyone tell me why this did that.and when i dumped the other bottle in of a-rx  why it helped.

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You completely skipped the rinse phase and also used up the Auto-Rx chemistry. Run 2500 miles and dump both the oil and the Auto-Rx (that you have in the engine now)

Mow put fresh clean oil (no Auto-Rx ) and rinse fro 5000 miles (change the filter and top off the oil every
1500 miles) for other readers this is an extreme correction measure to correct a bad application.

Always follow the instructions and you will get the results you bought Auto-Rx for.



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Frank Miller wrote:

You completely skipped the rinse phase and also used up the Auto-Rx chemistry. Run 2500 miles and dump both the oil and the Auto-Rx (that you have in the engine now)

Now put fresh clean oil (no Auto-Rx ) and rinse fro 5000 miles (change the filter and top off the oil every 1500 miles) for other readers this is an extreme correction measure to correct a bad application.

Always follow the instructions and you will get the results you bought Auto-Rx for.




 



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will this correct the mistake and give results.


thanks

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Interesting sequence of events. I'm more surprised that the fouled oil sensor occurred with the oil change instead of the original Auto-Rx sump. It's just unusual. We've seen a few oil sensors fouled during the clean phase and the rinse phase of heavily sludged engines, but it usually starts in the clean phase and disappears in the rinse phase. You don't know until you examine the filter if it's a saturated filter or a fouled sender. If changing the filter fixes it, then you more or less know the answer.

Just do the normal procedure and you should get the results you desire. If anything, your protracted initial bout allowed Auto-Rx more dwell time to do more cleaning.



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i am now getting blue smoke on start up for a minute or two. is that auto rx cleaning or is there a problem

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Check your PCV Valve.

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theprodigy001 wrote:

i am now getting blue smoke on start up for a minute or two. is that auto rx cleaning or is there a problem



Crud may be being removed from around the valves allowing flow where there was none before.   As the valve seals get cleaned and pliable again, the smoke should go away.

..and as Frank recommends, check to assure that your PCV valve is in good working order and that the hoses aren't restricted. 

 



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i checked my pcv valve and it has thick black stuff on it and around it and in it. so what problems could that be causing? and also what is the function of the pcv valve?

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It is a positive crankcase ventilation valve and if it's clogged all of the blow-by gasses of combustion have no place to go and build up pressure in the crankcase and cause all sorts of problems. It uses engine vacuum to remove those blow-by gasses are recycles them back into the combustion chambers. Replace it and the hose and if possible pull the valve cover and clean it so it's not blocked by black stuff. Also check to see if you have a PVC valve air filter. I don't think newer cars have the anymore. The sooner this is done the better as it's not going to help in getting your engine better.

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here is 2 pics that i took last week. you can see the thick gunk in my engine.





and you can wipe it off with your fingers. its very hard and crusty. if you rub it in your hands when its dry it turns to a fine powder..




now i can look and most of the stuff it gone. should i change out my oil filter to be safe.

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Yes its good preventive maintenance. Thanks for the photos

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In many cases where a build exists around the oil filller cap this can be due to trapped combustion gases. I say that because the filler cap area is not normally part of the splash system of the oiling system. I am also thinking because it dries out and becomes crustly it is due to vapors trapped in the top end under the valve cover. Hopefully you have corrected the PCV ventliation system. It is quite possible that areas under the valve cover that barely see splash fed lubrication are finally starting to clean up.

I would expect you will see the morning plume of blue smoke decrease as you proceed with your new application. Please remember to run the rinse phase this time.

You may want to consider running the maintenance dose of ARX with each oil change after you are done with this second application. Many motors are just smoother running the maintenance dose, due to its exceptional lubricity. I can hear the difference in my 4.8 liter Chevy motor, especially when its cold.

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