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Post Info TOPIC: VW 1.8 Engines (if you own one this is a must read)


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VW 1.8 Engines (if you own one this is a must read)
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I've had a rash of VW 1.8T's here. In my opinion this is not a design issue nor a service interval issue. It was selling too many units for too few service centers ..and spec'ing limited distribution oils that were only imported for the dealer network. Hence a customer wasn't going to drive 75 miles for a $150 oil change since "oil is oil, right?". Too many consumers were too used to traditional American cars that could not care less about what you threw in them.

That all said, I recommend a two bottle treatment using Rotella T Synthetic with multiple filter changes. You can probably skip the higher dollar 30lb bypass spec'd filter and buy the $2.99-$3.99 variety of 3/4-16 thread filters like FL400S. You'll be changing them @ 500/1000/1000/1000/etc 

Topped up for oil level, and with the aforementioned TIMELY filter changes, you should be able to extend this sump a great deal. If you can manage to cut open the filters for inspection, you can stop the clean phase 1000 miles after the last filter that shows no obvious accumulations.  Otherwise, we're recommending 6 filter evolutions (about 6000 miles) or 6 months as a point to switch to the rinse phase.

Your rings and turbo will be free of deposits pretty early on. All areas of forced circulation too. Areas of splash and incidental contact will take longer, but you are doing a prolonged/protracted clean phase.

Rinse in the same manner. The exception being that change out and (if possible) inspect the filter @ 1000 miles. If clean, run out til you've got your money's worth out of it and go back to whatever oil you choose.

DO NOT USE ANY MOBIL 1 PRODUCT OR ANY HIGH MILEAGE OIL. NO Fuchs, Motul, Elf or any of the niche exclusive oils that so many seem to find in the most obscure corners of our markets. They contain complex components that stifle Auto-Rx. .and no German Castrol 0w-30 either. (sorry, Euro-alloy owners have reputations )

Use Rotella T 5w-40 from WallMart for $20/gallon. It has an HTHS rating that is the same or greater than ACEA A3/B3-08. The rest is meaningless for this exercise.

http://www.lubrizol.com/EuropeanEngineOils/A3B308.html

If you want, Pennzoil 5w-40 Euro is acceptable as is any Shell/Pennzoil/Quaker State product. They all use Shell's proprietary XHVI base stock, a Group III. It's not PAO or POE, or EOP. but the Rotella will be your cheapest option.

If you have the time, please read this link.

http://www.auto-rx.activeboard.com/index.spark?aBID=108943&p=3&topicID=39712788

You can, if you so desire, just do one bottle treatments of 3000clean/3000 rinse for 2 or 3 evolutions. If this is a CONFIRMED sludge condition, change filters every 1500 miles including during the rinse phase. We really can't see inside the engine to measure the physical mass to be removed. As you can imagine it could easily fill several filters. The two bottle treatment is about the cheapest and quickest way to get this done.

If by chance you get an oil warning light, AND the engine is not in obvious distress, change the filter at first opportunity and see if it goes away. If the engine shows signs of distress, stop opperating it immediately and have the filter changed as the first course of corrective action before any other service is performed. This is a standard advisory for all engines. This is more a Lexus issue, but can happen to any car depending on a number of factors.

Regards,
Gary

-- Edited by dbdeland on Monday 31st of January 2011 05:19:58 PM

-- Edited by geeaea on Friday 4th of February 2011 08:06:02 AM

-- Edited by geeaea on Friday 4th of February 2011 08:10:45 AM

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An excellent write up on the amount of effort it takes to properly service a 1.8T's PCV system can be found here.   Note that this applies specifically to the 2000 ATW code engine.



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