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Post Info TOPIC: A-RX synthetic & dino question
jaycee


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A-RX synthetic & dino question
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I own a 92 Lexus ES300 w/ 160k+ and wanted to know before starting the treatment if it would be a problem or any complications since I've always used synthetic on my engine. I'd like to use the Auto-RX but I'm a little reluctant to use dino oil during the treatment. I've seen lots of warnings that once you start running synthetic oil it is unwise to ever go back to dino oil. But, that is what is necessary for the Auto-rx treatments.

Do the benefits of the Auto-rx outweigh the drawbacks of running dino oil after the engine is used to synthetic?

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dbdeland


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jaycee

Stay with simple mineral oil or Group 111 Oil.

Daryl

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benjamming


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It is not unwise to ever go back to dino oil. That is a myth. An engine doesn't get 'used' to synthetic. There are no drawbacks to running dino oil during the ARX phases. Run a 2-bottle treatment of Auto-Rx with dino oil and reap the rewards.

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TurboJim


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RE: A-RX synthetic & dino question
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People switch back and forth from conventional oil to synthetic all the time. The Auto-Rx cycles are short enough that there is really no worry. Once you have completed your application you may resume using the oil of your choice.

As dbdeland has pointed out it is preverable to stay with a conventional oil but if you must use synthetic chose one that uses Group III base stocks. It is not always easy to determine the base stocks of motor oil. In most cases the least expensive oil available will probably be the one best choice. A good resource for learning more about motor oil is Bob Is The Oil Guy - http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB1

I would recommend replacing your PVC valve on a regular basis because a worn one could lead to sludge build up.

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jaycee


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Thanks for clearing that out for me guys..I've went to the mechanic not so long ago and he pointed out that my engine had minor seal leaks and suggest that I replaced them which is a pricey job..I understand that A-RX might be able to help with minor seal leaks. Should I go ahead with the normal 2 step Cleaning & Rinse phase or should I go a different route?

Also what oil you guys recommend I use for the treatment? My engine specifies that i use SAE 10W30 which is what i use now for synthetic. Does the same apply with the dino oil? I current use Castrol GTX as my oil of choice if it matters at all.


Thanks for the heads up TurboJim i'll keep that in mind. smile

-- Edited by jaycee at 17:18, 2007-08-30

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dbdeland


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A-RX synthetic & dino question
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jaycee


I would use what your manufacturer recommends but 10X30 sounds ok. You might have to use Dino oil for 2 oil changes if the seal is not damaged the ARX should stop the leak. Thanks for purchasing Auto-Rx. Also make sure you follow the web site instructions they are very important.

Daryl


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TurboJim


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I would recommend that you stick with the oil weight (viscosity) recommended by your engine manufacturer. Sometimes this is printed on the oil fill cap, but you can always find this information listed in the owners manual. My guess is that Toyota / Lexus specified 5W-30 or 10W-30 for you engine.

Oi leaks sometimes can require additonal "rinse phase" miles before the problem is resolved. By additional rinse phase I mean running a 2nd rinse for 3,000 miles using a conventional motor oil. Once the leak has stopped you can go back to using the motor oil of your choice.

Auto-Rx should be able to repair your rotational seals but gaskets are a different matter. I personally have noticed gasket leaks that were reduced when ARX was in the oil, so for me that's just another reason to use the Auto-Rx Maintenance Plan after you have finished your application. Valve cover gaskets will become hard over time and require occasional replacement.

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jaycee


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A-RX synthetic & dino question
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Will do..thanks again guys, will keep you posted on how it goes from here.

One last question: Should I go with normal OEM typical oil filter for the cleansing and rinsing or should I go with a "performance brand" filter like K&N which are a bit more expensive if it even matters at all?


-- Edited by jaycee at 00:02, 2007-08-31

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TurboJim


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If it were me I'd go low budget on the oil filters while doing your ARX cycles. For that matter the same goes for motor oil. The SuperTech line of products found at Wal-Mart will meet your needs.

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benjamming


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I wouldn't think that you would want to skimp on the oil filter during the rinse phase b/c you are trying to capture the sludge, etc. that has built up. Hmm high flow vs. good filtering, there is a balance in the universe :).

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jaycee


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Ok..treatment has been started and it looks like I'll be keeping the ARX for longer in there according to the new guidelines.

I ended up using the same oil I've always used Castrol GTX which found out in this forum that is indeed a Group III dino oil and not a synthetic like i thought it was..new OEM filter to go along with it. One thing the mechanic did that i found odd was that he put a higher oil weight 20W50 as opposed to the 10W30.

When I asked him why, he said that with a car that age(1992) and higher mileage(162k) the car is no longer "fit" for that weight since that specification was made when the car was new and younger. The car would benefit more with a higher weight as opposed to a "loose" lighter oil and engine seals of the sort would benefit from it.

Don't quite still understand his decision but i guess it makes sense.
Hopefully I'll start noticing some changes after 500miles or so.

That is all for now. Feel free to comment =]

-- Edited by jaycee at 16:48, 2007-09-01

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TurboJim


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Well I can't agree with your mechanic's logic. My 1989 Toyota truck is spec'd for 10W-30 but for the last few years I've been running 5W-30. Just to push the envelope a bit at 171,000~ I ran 5W-20 and I would have to say it had at that point it never run better. Since then I've switched back to 5W-30 to see if I could tell a difference. I lost a few tenths of a MPG but really if fuel economy was all you were after you aren't going to gain much by using the thinner oil.

I've also tried 15W-40 in my truck. I thought it ran smooth enough but the engine did seem a little sluggish.

If you ever had a oil consumption problem it will deminish or go away completely after finishing your ARX treatment.

Here is an article on motor oil you may find interesting: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles#faq_motor_oil_basics

A thinner oil will flow better than a thick oil allowing ARX to do a better job of cleaning and rinsing in my opinion. Most engine wear occurs within the first 20 minutes of start up which is where thinner oil will always have an advantage.

-- Edited by TurboJim at 22:44, 2007-09-01

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jaycee


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I'm not really liking the feel of the oil weight in my engine it feels sort of sluggish and forcefull when i accelerate..i guess ill be going back to 10W30 or maybe a little heavier once i start the rinsing process..I'm only a hundred miles into the cleaning phase..seems like the second application is years to come.

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Frank Miller


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Use oil with viscosity stated by the manufacture.

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jaycee


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Will do Frank.

I'm considering using ARX on my tranny. I just heard a few negative things about doing flushes on the tranny. Can you elaborate a bit more on what to do after you run the 1K miles of ARX in the transmission.

I understand you have to get the oil out but i heard not all of it gets out..and if that happens u might risk the tranny.

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TurboJim


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Do you know if your transmission has a filter? In some transmissions it doesn't consist of anything more than a screen, in other's it is an actual filter that should occasionally be replaced. When you use ARX contaminents are liquified, kept in suspension untill they are filtered or drained out.



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jaycee


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Unfortunately i don't know if it has a filter or not.

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Frank Miller


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You can't go wrong if a few drops of Auto-Rx stays in Transmission after drain. It will help continue cleaning of the transmission unit-dissolve dirt,etc. No need to clean transmission filter as Auto-Rx will do so when cleaning. Auto-Rx is "NOT" a flush. We don't bombard metal with solvents and break off pieces of contaminants that may stop up oil screen. Auto-Rx liquifys "crud' and when you drain transmission it comes out. One last thing Auto-Rx cleans torque converter and if you can't clean it don't bother cleaning transmission.

-- Edited by Frank Miller at 13:06, 2007-09-06

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Frank Miller


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Hello Bob for first cleaning it makes no difference what is in engine.
for rinse mode use a non synthetic oil like WalMart Super Tech. On
second application for both cleaning & rinsing use a non synthetic.
When your done total Auto-Rx Application go to Maintenance Plan and stay
with non synthetic oil. Alternative oil if you have turbo is a group 111
oil like Pennsoil no more synthetic oil as it helps form sludge.

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TurboJim


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Let me just offer a bit of clarification....

"No need to clean transmission filter as Auto-Rx will do so when cleaning."

This is true if your filter consists of nothing more than a screen. Some vehicles have a actual filter that could become restricted over time. ARX will assist you in restoring or maintaining your transmission in top condition. Always follow the factory service interval for fluid and filter.

"...no more synthetic oil as it helps form sludge."

Synthetic oil isn't a cure all for sludge. Synthetic may take longer to sludge up than conventional oil but under the right (or should I say wrong) conditions it will. Regular used oil analysis is the only way you're really going to know how your oil is holding up in regard to your oil change interval. Don't just assume that because you are using synthetic you are safe to run a significantly longer oil change interval or it will prevent you from ever experiencing sludge. Your driving conditions play a big factor in how well oil holds up over time.


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Frank Miller


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Sorry Turbo Jim i did not make it clear that post was for an owner of a sludgemobile and thats why no synthetic oil.

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TurboJim


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A-RX synthetic & DINO question
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Ok... I understand now. Best results are achieved when you avoid competing chemistries.


PEOPLE FOR THE MOST PART DON'T KNOW WHAT DINO IS LET ALONE MINERAL OIL THE PARTS GUY DOES NOT KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN BY NON SYNTHETIC OIL SO TO MOVE ON WE ARE CHANGING OUR WEB SITE TO REMOVE THESE WORDS AND SUBSTITUTE WITH GROUP 111 OIL'S. IF YOUR PARTS GUY DOES NOT KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS SHOP SOMEWHERE ELSE.

-- Edited by Frank Miller at 13:31, 2007-09-07

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Frank Miller


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Auto-Rx can work with synthetic for initial cleaning phase for "Sludge Issues" that includes Mobil 1. It is the sludge problem alone that causes me to state don't use a true synthetic as it's complex additive package holds oil to metal. You don't want this effect when your goal is to remove engine damaging sludge from oil lubricated parts.

Why not use a group 111 oil for second cleaning & rinsing that will do nicely ?

if synthetic users could understand that sludge keeps being formed and the Auto-Rx Application keeps sludge flowing into the filter and that the end game is to keep there engine from extinction due to sludge. i am sure
group 111 oils would be very acceptable.


ON ENGINE CLEANING APPLICATIONS AUTO-RX CAN WORK WELL WITH ANY SYNTHETIC.


ON TRANSMISSIONS APPLICATIONS AUTO-RX CAN WORK WELL WITH ANY SYNTHETIC.


WHY NOT USE A GROUP !!! OIL OR TRANSMISSION FLUID INSTEAD ? IT IS MORE COST EFFECTIVE AND EQAL IN PERFORMANCE.

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jaycee


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500 Miles into the cleaning phase and i noticed my gas mileage has increased dramatically..as i have to refill less frequently lately..

Just an update =]


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benjamming


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how often you refill doesn't have much to do with mpg. Have you been tracking miles/gallon? Do you have a steady route & fill up at the same station?

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jaycee


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Yeah i put about 40 miles a day 4 days a week and usually refill in the same gas station.

I haven't really tracked mpg because i don't really know how much I get by the gallon on my car..

I notice that my trips to the gas station has slowed down like about 2 to 3 days. Before i was in the gas station like every 5 days..now its like an entire week without having to refill.

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jaycee


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So I'm about 800miles into the cleaning phase now and It's about high 50s low 60s here in New York and I'm noticing that when I start my car I emit a big puff of smoke of light color from the exhaust..I don't think it's because of the weather yet.

I Recently changed the PVC Valve which isn't sitting very fit in the hole but it's in there well enough i guess..My question is, Is it normal or part of the process?

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jaycee


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A-RX synthetic & dino question
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So I guess no one can answer why there's so much white smoke coming from my tailpipe when I start my car even when it isn't cold outside?

Oh yeah theres some kind of water like moisture dripping out of the exhaust while this is happening..the smoke stops coming out after about a minute or two.

This usualy happens after the car's been off for a while.



-- Edited by jaycee at 22:34, 2007-09-20

-- Edited by jaycee at 22:44, 2007-09-20

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TurboJim


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A normal by-product of combustion is water vapor. Unless you are loosing coolant I don't think you have anything to worry about.

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jaycee


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Problem is the white smoke never happened before..I noticed the color of my coolant in the container looks brown. Someone told me the problem could be a leak of coolant into the engine cylinders through a bad head gasket.

I'm worried about continuing too run the car and proceeding with the cleaning phase.

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jaycee


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I think i found the source of my problem..When i replaced the PVC valve I accidentally put it in without the rubber piece that goes attached to it.

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Frank Miller


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Auto-Rx can't hurt anything. It is not a solvent or petrolueum based chemistry. Auto-Rx is all natural and what is does is clean oil lubricated rotating parts , clean seal fabric ( without swelling) finally an Auto-Rx treated engine will extend MTBF and perform like it is new (if you follow directions for use) Results depend on you. Not Auto-Rx

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