Hello everyone. I've got a '97 Volvo 960 with about 135k miles that has been consuming oil.
Some background info on this car: I bought the car in April (about 8 months ago) with a broken timing belt (got it for real cheap!). I pulled the engine, installed a rebuilt cyl head and re-sealed everything. At the time I had a Volvo expert helping me online and over the phone. He suggested to me to take the pistons out and soak them in cleaner, because these motors very commonly get sludge in the oil ring grooves and drainback holes, causing oil consumption. Often this happens well before 100k miles if conventional oil was used. This motor seemed slightly sludgy. Nothing terrible, but not pristine either. Stupidly, I didnt follow his advice (just wanted to get this car on the road) and low and behold it burns oil. It has consistantly been at a rate of 1qt/1000 miles but has gotten as bad as 1qt/400 miles during high load conditions (towing). This is getting rediculous and I'd rather not tear down this motor a second time to clean everything out.
I work on cars for a living, and I in general I dont believe in oil addtives, but I've done a lot of reading about Auto-rx and the science behind it is sound. Basically it's a cleaner, and that's exactly what I need. So I think I'm going to give it a try since I've got nothing to lose. Has anyone else had experience with the inline-6 in Volvo 960's before?
Also I've got another question. During the inital phase you're supposed to run the auto-rx about 2500 miles. Since my car is going to need 2 quarts in that time requiring me to add oil, will that dilute the auto-rx treatment? Also this car has a higher oil-capacity than most cars (6.5qts) so would I need to add more than 1 bottle of auto-rx (maybe 20% of a second bottle?)
Thanks.
here's some pics of the inside of the motor for the curious. http://www.photodump.com/anarchyx34/a89512/
Its never used much oil, even though it has a hard life but the capacity jumping from 5.3 to 6 litres on a fill is a massive suprise. Before this i've never used an oil "additive" in my engine because I have seen the damage they do.
As you say though Auto RX is a cleaner rather than an additive and although it takes a while to work its magic, it so much better than ruining a good engine because you want to flush it in 20 minutes.
My only problem now is im having to buy an extra litre of Mobil 1 at every oil change, with all the rubbish its gone and cleaned out of my engine!!
No need to cross your fingers your going to need 3 bottles not 2. Reading the application for sludge the FAQ on www.auto-rx.com would have been of help. Print out the application before you start cleaning. Auto-Rx Works if you work it.
I just got my bottle. Holy CRAP that was quick. I'm going to dump it in without changing my oil since it's pretty clean (that's what happens when you add a new quart ever 1000 miles) and I've got about 2500 miles to go before my next oil change anyway.
I have a question about dilution. As my car uses oil during the clean phase and I need to add oil, dosen't that dilute the auto-rx? Do I need to add more as I add oil?
Hello anarchyx34, just trying to avoid any sources of problems here, I can see by your pictures how the valves have hit the pistons and probably been crushed when the register belt tore. And furthermore; this may be just a lighting problem in the pictures, but it looks like there are scares in at least one cylinder wall, probably form a bent valve?
If you did not pull the pistons and honed the cylinders, you may have a problem with excessive blowby caused by scares in the cylinder walls. Or bits of the crushed valves migh have trapped between the pistons and cylinder walls, causing excessive wear when the engine were put in duty again. If so, ARX will not help as this is a pure mechanical problem.
But if my eyes fool me, I wish you luck with your application, your engine is in the gentle but effective hands of Auto-RX!
I can see how the picture is misleading. The cyl walls on this car are in excellent shape. No scoring or any other damage, and the factory hone is still visible. In the pictures they were quite dirty, partly from me cleaning carbon from the tops of the pistons and oil drippage from removing the cyl head. Those 'scores' you see wiped off with a rag. It was all cleaned up before putting the motor back together. And while the valves did contact the pistons, they were only bent. No pieces came off of them. This motor actually has no blowby as far as I can tell, and these cars usually have very clear signs when experienceing blowby (dipstick shoots out, oil cap blows off valve cover, etc...).
Anyway so far I'm halfway into the clean cycle. Only things to report are an increase in oil consumptin (now up to 600mi/qt) and the oil looks dirty as hell. I've also noticed visible smoke at times when accelerating briskly, something that never happened before but it's also quite cold out so that may have something to do with it. Still got another 1200 miles to go before the rinse cycle, but I may replace the oil filter before hand just in case.
Sounds like ARX is working just wait until you are finished the results will be positive the smoke could be that ARX is cleaning the ring packs you must be patient that was the problem when I used ARX.
You have a very dirty engine and sure ring pack is just starting to clean up. Follow the application instructions keep topping off oil. Your results wil be after rinse mode.
Well I started the rinse phase today with Exxon 10w30 dino oil (what I normally use anyway). From what I understand this is where I'll start to see some results. Still keeping fingers crossed :).
I printed out the instructions and have them in the car. Even still it seems simple and hard to screw up. 2500 mile clean phase, then 3000 mile rinse phase changing the oil filter again at 1500 miles.
Some notes since the oil change yesterday. There is no more smoke. I always used to see some in the headlights of the car behind me on a hard run to redline. Not seeing that anymore. Also used to get a slight puff when taking off for the first time in the morning. I'm assuming this has something to do with new oil which is thicker in viscosity than used oil. But even still it always used to smoke a little under hard accel with new oil or used. Acceleration seems a bit stronger then previous. May be just in my head, or it may have something to do with the sudden 10F cold snap we've been experiencing. I guess time will tell.
Well I still think it's too early to tell. From what I've read most people don't really see an improvement until the end of the rinse cycle, which I just started. I'm still optimistic though.
I know many people gauge their progress by looking under the oil filler cap to see if sludge or stains are dissolving. Unfortunately since my car has a rebuilt head, which is already clean, I wont be able to tell with that method.