Hi I own 1998 Ford Mustang GT 4.6L V8 with 139K miles, its burn oils and leak some where . and in cyclinder 7-8 has oils on spark plug tip.
Factory recoment me using 5w/30, but after all that happent I swith to Pennzoils 10w/30 with bottle of lucas oils, and it seem help alot, but after 1k miles or so, it start to burn a little oils again.
Im about to use this product in my car, and had few question. Since my car burn oils and had valve seal leak. And had oil leak some where under the car ( i dint found any oil on floor but I do see some greese under the car ).
What methol do I need ? should I use 5w/30 like my manual say ? super tech 5w/30 with motorcraft oils filter good cambo ? I been use lucas HD oils sta for last 1k miles, and i heard that it stay in my engine until 20k miles. Will auto-rx still work ?
Hello Ken Please read www.auto-rx.com including FAQ (Lucas Stabilizer is a heavy petroleum based oil ,it covers up ticks etc) Auto-Rx is a metal cleaner it is non solvent- non petroleum based chemistry. Click on Auto-Rx Forum also. You will need to order three bottles. Two separate cleanings and than on maintenance dose. No more additives. Frank Miller Inventor
Hi, can I add oil if oil level is low ? about 2500 miles oils change, I dint drive alot, so it take at lease 4-5 month to get to 2500 miles, is that still ok ?
Hi I knew my factory recomment me using 5w/30 oils, but for the miles I really feel good using 10w/30, and I choose dino 10w/30 vavoline over super tech, and I knew super tech is recomment. can I stop using super tech oils after 2 phase clean had be done ? thanks
I would stick with the recommended viscosity oil. You don't HAVE to use Super Tech oil, it's just be shown to work well with the Auto Rx. Our 99 Honda Civic is in the "cleaning" phase, and I'm using Valvoline because it was on sale.
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2001 Ford Ranger, 4.0 V6. Mobil 1 0w-30, Motorcraft FL 820s filter, 3oz Auto Rx
From what Frank saying, that I should do 2 time of this ?
Step 1 - See notes on choosing an engine oil for use with Auto-Rx®. It is preferable to use conventional (Group III) motor oil for this application. If your engine has a supercharger, turbocharger or the manufacturer recommends that you only use synthetic motor oil please choose a Group III motor oil to avoid competing chemistry
Step 2 - Change oil and filter. Add one 12 oz. bottle of Auto-Rx®.
Step 3 Clean Phase - Drive 2,500 miles
Step 4 - Change oil and filter. Do not add any other product or additional Auto-Rx®.
Step 5 - Rinse Phase - Drive 3,000 miles.
Step 6 -Change oil and filter
and after 2 time of these step, add 3 oz to every oils change ? than I can ran any type of oil i want ?
I just order a bottle of auto-rx ( and will order again next time , it gonna take me many month to finish the first applican, so I dint need to order 3 bottle at once ).
I been read the faq and applican, kinda confuse. Basic, heavy sluge Heavy Oils Burn Seal Leak.
For my situation that my car is over 100k miles,
with burn oils ( but not alot, its go thru 1 quart of oils every 3-4 week ). in 7-8 cylinder have valve seal leak. But after lucas its go away ( I dont plan to go with lucas again after knowing this product . )
I take off the valve cover and see my car dint have slug at all, some part it kinda black and some part is really clean.
My car dint have heavy slug or heavy oils burn, and have very little minor leak. So what applicant I need to follow then ? please take time and reply step by step and I will stay with it. Thanks
Here is application for your engine (which is over 100,000 miles)
Auto-Rx® Basic Application Instructions For all Oil and Engine Types (except 2-stroke engines) (updated: 9-1-2007) Print a copy of the instructions Basic instructions are intended for vehicles that are in good condition with less than 100,000 miles. Notes on what to expect from Auto-Rx®
Step 1 - See notes on choosing an engine oil for use with Auto-Rx®. It is preferable to use conventional (Group III) motor oil for this application. If your engine has a supercharger, turbocharger or the manufacturer recommends that you only use synthetic motor oil please choose a Group III motor oil to avoid competing chemistry
Step 2 - Change oil and filter. Add one 12 oz. bottle of Auto-Rx®.
Step 3 Clean Phase - Drive 2,500 miles
Step 4 - Change oil and filter. Do not add any other product or additional Auto-Rx®.
Step 5 - Rinse Phase - Drive 3,000 miles.
Step 6 -Change oil and filter
END OF BASIC APPLICATION
Please note: Vehicles with over 100,000 miles may require a second application. For second application, simply repeat steps 1 through 6
It sure is. Your burning off 'crud' from your tail pipe and just starting on the ring packs & valve train. Just keep on with Auto-Rx application and all will be well. Guess is you will start burning oil again don't worry just top off and finish application. By the time you finish rinse mode smoking-oil burning will be gone.
Hope your doing 2 applications think your engine really contaminated. Go back to www.auto-rx.com and read FAQ. Use website search engine and type in smoke -oil burning you will get clear concise answers.
Yes I will do 2 applications, 2500 is long way to do for me, I just dont want buy 3 bottle and store it in my garage ( im affair that will mess up the bottle ), Thanks
Hi , I have another 1500 miles until my next oils change, Im running 10w/30 QS dino oils, and smoke alot if the weather is kinda hot ( in MS some time the weather is going up to 70 in winter time ), so Im plan to go with 10w/40 penzoils or in next oils change ( should be summer time ). Its ok ? my manual recomment me running 5w/30.
I always recommend sticking with the manufacturer's stated viscosity. Wait until you're finished with the cleaning phase before making any decision to change oil viscosity. Frank addressed your smoke issue in his above post, hang in there!
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2001 Ford Ranger, 4.0 V6. Mobil 1 0w-30, Motorcraft FL 820s filter, 3oz Auto Rx
"Did you know the Auto-Rx product added to your crankcase, not only works slowly and safely to dissolve contaminants, it does not disrupt the host oil chemistry,It does provide for a lower coefficient of friction, improve oil film formation, boost EP capability. Auto-Rx does a lot more than clean. Why would anyone waste there money on other products especially in this economy ?"
i got about 900 miles before next oils change, some how my check engine light is off, its about bank 1 and bank 2 something like that, I dont know if it was auto rx , but the car seem run alot better.
I been gone thru about 3.5 quart from last oil change. I stil have 800 miles left until doing rinse phase. I seem every body craving about pennzoils platium, should I use it or stay with dino pennzoils.
Frank honest with me about oils weight, factory recomment 96-98 mustang 4.6 using 5w/30, from 99+ they recomment using 5w/20, weather in MS is never below 30 and never high then 85. If I go with PP what weight do I need and if I go with dino pennzoils what weight do I need. Im currently using 10w/30 with motorcraft oil filter, it do make some noise first start then queit down after warm up. I alway alway want to try 5w/30 but scare its too thin for my engine. about 800 more miles it will turn 142xxx miles. Thanks
One thing to consider is that you get most of your wear at startup, so you want an oil that can get to all the parts that need lubricating as fast as possible, that is why you use what the factory recommends, I remember reading on the crown-vic.net website that some guy was using 10W-30 and at 100,000 miles he was burning oil and had to periodically add more oil, the engines today versus 25 or 30 years ago have much tighter tolerances and I believe that is one of the reasons for lighter weight oil, leave the thicker oils like 10W-40 and 20w-50 for the Nascar guys, the only thing thicker oil does is mask some valvetrain noises, also with a heavier oil you will lose some gas mileage, my 1983 Chevrolet El Camino calls for 10W-30 and that is what I use.I think that the 4.6 is an overhead cam engine so it would be important to run a thinner oil, Chevy High Performance once did a dyno test with various weight oil's and the thinner ones showed a gain in horsepower, using a thicker oil is old school just like never changing out your PCV.
I would think that you could definetly use it for the clean phase, but for the rinse phase I would stick with a dino oil, I would think that you would get better results by using dino oil on both the clean and rinse phase to get maximum results, so I it maybe ok for the clean, but not sure on the rinse, others might chime in. I have always been a Synthetic Oil user but I asked Frank what would work best and he said dino oil so that is what I used and had no problems, oil that was drained came out fine, it was my oil filters that were heavy from all of the contaniments going to the filter, I feel that if I had used a semi-synthetic oil my results would not have been so good. Remember in Frank's instructions he states that it is preferable to use dino oil, for such a short time that the oil is in there during the clean and rinse phase it would also be cheaper and dino oil does not keep Auto-Rx from doing what it is supposed to do, whereas with some synthetic in there it may take longer to clean up, I do not know why and that is because I listened to Frank and used the dino oil so I did not need to know, I followed Frank's instructions and the results I got were from his suggestions and instructions and not my own, if I followed my thinking who knows where I would be in the Auto-Rx process, just follow Frank's instructions and use the cheapest dino oil, I have heard a lot of good things about oil's but the problem is that no matter what oil you choosed you ended up here and are using Auto-Rx because all motor oil does is lubricate and cool, it does not CLEAN.
Yesterday I did travel few hundred miles ( I try go get the miles up to 2500, so I can do the rinse phase ) I only have about 100 miles left, before oil need to be change, bad new is this car will be storage in the garage for a few month, because I have another car I need to do auto rx, do you think its ok for me to change fresh oils and storage it ? then few month later after get it out the garage I change oils again ? or just leave that fresh oil their and driving for 3k miles, then do another aplication ? thanks
Can I go over 2500 miles, cause next week I take a trip about 400 miles, going back is another 400, what you think I still have about 50 miles left before going to rinse phase, should I just change the oils now and go rinse phase ? thanks
I went to local walmart, and some how they remove all the QS state ( green bottle ) product, look like some one is clear all of them out, Im in need oils, can Im currently using 5w/30 QS , can I use valvoline or pennzoils 5w/30 or any other 5w/30 oils for top off ? thanks
One thing to consider is that you get most of your wear at startup, so you want an oil that can get to all the parts that need lubricating as fast as possible, that is why you use what the factory recommends, I remember reading on the crown-vic.net website that some guy was using 10W-30 and at 100,000 miles he was burning oil and had to periodically add more oil, the engines today versus 25 or 30 years ago have much tighter tolerances and I believe that is one of the reasons for lighter weight oil, leave the thicker oils like 10W-40 and 20w-50 for the Nascar guys, the only thing thicker oil does is mask some valvetrain noises, also with a heavier oil you will lose some gas mileage, my 1983 Chevrolet El Camino calls for 10W-30 and that is what I use.I think that the 4.6 is an overhead cam engine so it would be important to run a thinner oil, Chevy High Performance once did a dyno test with various weight oil's and the thinner ones showed a gain in horsepower, using a thicker oil is old school just like never changing out your PCV.
In normal tempature ranges 5w, 10w, 20w, SAE 30, etc all flow pretty close to the same.
It's only in the cold that they begin to flow different. Keep in mind some of the tests to get the W number are done at neg 20C, neg30C, etc! At room temp, it doesn't matter. When it's below freezing then it begins to matter and when it's subzero then it really matters.
Next, it's CLEARANCES, not tolerances. Also, of the hundreds of people that have told me the clearances are getting smaller, not a single one has told me the clearances on a 2000 4.6L (recommended 5w30) and a 2001 4.6L (recommended 5w20). Or the clearances on a brand new diesel engine recommended 15w40. Or the clearances on BMW, MB, or other foreign cars that are recommended things like 5w40, 5w50, 10w60, etc. Or the clearances on motors built here in the US, shipped overseas, and are recommended 10w30, 15w40, sometimes even 20w50 but are recommended 5w20 or 5w30 here.
And as far as racers using thick oil. Here's the requirements for NASCAR last I knew:
Un-restricted NASCAR Nextel Cup and Busch Series engines 50 cSt @40°C 9.1 cSt @100°C
Restrictor plate, NASCAR Nextel Cup and Busch Series engines 31 cSt @40°C 6.3 cSt @100°C
Restrictor plate NASCAR qualifying 11.5 cSt @40°C 3.8 cSt @100°C
Also, as a crown vic owner I'm willing to bet he had a 92 to 94 which had valve stem seal problems and all had high oil consumption at about that time.
I'm not flaming you, just clearing up a few things.
Make sure you stay with same viscosity any group 111 would be fine. I have been off the board smoking is normal when your cleaning the built up contaminants in your engine. This and many other quirks will go away after rinse mode is done.
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