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Post Info TOPIC: Severely Sludged 97 3.4L Toyota! Will it save it?


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Severely Sludged 97 3.4L Toyota! Will it save it?
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Hi all, just came upon this site tonight and am hoping you have an answer to my problem.

I just bought a nice looking 97 Toyota 4Runner... 3 days later it blew a spark plug out, destroyed the coil and ruined the threads on the head. I re-tapped and threaded a new sparkplug in and it seemed to work out. Now in the process of fixing this problem I decided to take of one of the valve covers... HOLY @%#&!!! I have never seen anything like it... it was PACKED with dark fudge looking stuff. I mean PACKED... I will try and get photos up as soon as I can, probably Wednesday. I unfortunately started to pry into it with my screwdriver in an attempt to clean some of it out but later I was told that was a bad idea BECAUSE... when I put it all back together and started it there is a horrible knock coming from that side! Aaghh! So now I found this ARX stuff but I don't want to drive it... should I try and clean the top of the head off first to get rid of the knock? Any recommendations?

I really don't want to fork out another $2500 for an engine swap... I have my first child on the way and this was so we would have a safe car to drive...

Thanks in advance!!

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One of the first things I'd do is change out the PCV valve and make sure the hose connecting to it is clear of obstructions. If you don't fix the problem that is causing sludge in the first place you'll just be spinning your wheels.

Here is the ARX application you'll want to follow - http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/heavy_sludge_app.html






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Auto-Rx has cleaned sludge out of these engines and kept the sludge liquid enough to be carried to your oil filter.

If you folow the application for sludge removal, all will be well. Please go to home page www.auto-rx.com
and type sludge in web site search engine. Think this will give you results from others like your self.

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Just remember you will be going through a lot of filters, so make sure you stock up, and buy the cheapest filters you can buy.

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Thanks very much for the tips... I will get some pictures up tomorrow of the horror.

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So here is what my camshaft looks like:
sludge1.jpg
sludge2.jpg
sludge3.jpg


Awesome!!! hmm.gif

And there is a real bad knocking sound coming from it... and it runs bad now all of a sudden. Also I know this is dumb but for the purpose of exploring I started it up with the cover off and it shoots out this chocolate milk from underneath the gears there...
blowout1.jpg
blowout2.jpg


I don't know what to do now... I can't run it because of the knock... arrgh!

I guess I'll have my local dude look at it, see if he has any suggestions...

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I read it somewhere and its a recall on that, check your dealer for recall, they should fix it or replace it with new engine, good luck.

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With sludge that bad, I would do Auto-RX but first, I would drop the oil pan, and throughly clean it, remove the valve cover and clean the valve cover, then fill the ENTIRE engine with Kerosene, like up the oil cap full. Let it sit over night or a day or two, DO NOT START THE ENGINE.

Then drain all the kerosene, again remove pan and the valve cover and clean up what you can.

From there, get a new filter and the cheapest oil you can find, run it through for no more then 5 minutes, dump that filter, replace filter, run engine again for 5 minutes, dump that filter and oil.

I would fill the whole thing with Kerosene again and let sit another 24 hrs and repeat

Then do short 500 mile or less intervals, and then do Auto_RX.

Solvents in my engine! In a case like that, probably.

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2004 Subaru WRX STi


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Here is an alternative type experimental application using Auto-Rx (no solvents) 1- change oil to plain non synthetic oil 2- add 2 bottles of Auto-Rx to the new clean oil. 3- Extend cleaning cycle to 3000 miles (filter change at first 1500 miles)
just top off oil and complete the 3000 miles. 4-Drain oil change filter and replace with plain non synthetic oil.
5- Drive in rinse cycle for 3000 miles and change filter at 1500 miles top off oil and finishs rinse.

6- Repeat all of above instructions. When done with second cleaning go to maintenace dose. Will all this work? I think so. You have nothing to lose as Auto-Rx is safe.

Your spending money for 5 bottles of Auto-Rx and 4 inexpensinve oil changes and filters. Not a wrench used.

Frank Miller

ps. This application is for his engine only.

-- Edited by Frank Miller at 09:51, 2007-12-21

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ajitaw,

Franks application is based on the engine running and his instructions followed if the engine cannot run Auto-Rx cannot work and will not be responsible if the engine has to be replaced.

Daryl


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ajitaw- It would be nice if we could lock down what you're calling "knocking". Since it's in the upper head area ..and obviously NOT your rods ..then you can, more or less, relax. It's far cheaper to pull and service a head than it is to do the engine ...but that would be premature.

Since you've scored the sludge, I'd even top Frank's recommendation on filter changes. I'd do one within 100 miles/2.5 hours of operation. See if it's physically full of goop. If not, then put a new filter on and go another 200 miles/5 hours of operation. Buy cheap ST (wallmart) or whatever $2-$3.x filter that you please. After you've figured out that you're not plugging filters, then go about your business. You've got so much physical mass there that I'm sure you'll out pace the 8-10gm holding capacity of most filters in a short time. Auto-Rx will handle a good bit too ...and the oil will suspend much ..but there are surely limits ....and I think you'll test them.

My added recommendations may not be necessary ..but I think that they would be wise in your case.  Just my opinion <shrug>.

Noises will come and go and I'd surely expect for you to hear a few more during the cleaning and rinse phases before you ever see quiet again.

Good luck. I think you'll make it through this okay.

-- Edited by geeaea at 01:07, 2007-12-22

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I agree with geeaea's oil filter advise, except I'd start out in 500 mile increments and see where that gets you. In the Super Tech line the ST3600 is the longer version of the ST3614, the one that is spec'd for your engine.

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Well, he could reuse the filters that he checks. As long as he doesn't flex the can or damage the gasket ..but at $2-$3 a pop<shrug>.  500 would probably do fine ...but my thoughts are that if you did find a plugged filter @ 500 ..just when did it plug? 450 miles ..or 150 miles? Since there's plenty of sludged motors that have done just fine with the 1500 mile filter usage, I'm sure he'll be fine either way. I just figured that he may get better/faster results by removing suspended sludge in a more timely manner. My reasoning can be surely be flawed, however.   I mean, give the current state of the engine, the notion of circulating material is hardly too much of a concern.  Dental cleaning (the in the office type)  isn't something you would do everyday either ..but it's far more preferred to not doing it.

(hint: I was trying to get some free ancillary research conducted "while he was there" )

-- Edited by geeaea at 14:12, 2007-12-22

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