I have a 94 Honda Accord and just recently while driving about 45 mph my car made an ugly sound and simply shut off. I was able to coast and reach a stores' parking lot. After coming to a stop, the car would not start.
To make a long story longer.
Car was towed, and dealer told me the timing belt had jumped three teeth and that it was due to engine sluge. Also that I needed a new engine. However they were able to get it to start, but told me that it would happen again.
So while driving home which is only 4.5 miles away the oil lamp lit up at the corner of my home. Very distraught I moped for a day, then started to do research. So I decided to remove valve cover to see what if any damage was done. I was shocked at what I found, the sluge build up was so bad the it had incased about 6 of the cars 16 valves. The Sluge was as hard as coal!! I didn't see any visable damage, however my guess is that this is what caused the timing belt to jump??
I very carefully removed the harded sluge around each valve, and cleaned the valve cover which was also encased. Also these valves were of course dry with no oil, since they were encased with this harded sluge. I still have to test if this will now allow oil to flow.
Now my question is will this product help my car break down this harded sluge?? Sorry for the long post, but I'm desperate!!
Auto-Rx removes sludge .Please go to www.auto-rx.com and read FAQ.Also article on this forum regarding sludgeand please print out application for sludge and follow it. You need to do 2 applications of Auto-Rx and folow maintenance program after.
No wait until you have cleaned the pan out then add the ARX MAKE sure you keep the filters changed you are going to fill them up with the amount of sludge you have. And follow TurboJims recommendation and change the PCV valve.
Daryl
As part of your routine maintenance change the PCV valve on a regular basis. TurboJim
I plan on making purchase of Auto-Rx ASP! As mentioned by jbl, should I drop oil pan before or after treatment? Plus by seeing images is there anything else I should do?
I had timing belt replaced I think at 80K, the car now I think has about 128k. As you can see on earlier post I included spme photo's ..however photo is after I removed harded sludge. I honestly don't how this car was running with 6 of the bottom valves encased with that harden sludge. Dam that car sure was a trooper!
HF, I'd like to see some photos of your valve covers/oil pan if you could.
The photos above were after I removed the harden sludge. I wish I can taken a photo before removal of harden sludge. However I was in panic mode at the time, and was not thinking of photos.
What I did was plugged the holes, and chipped away at harded sludge and used a power vac to suck up loosen sludge. As you can see, in photo it was bone dry at bottom valves starting from 3th to 8th valve.
I didn't go any further with the cleaning for fear of making matters worse with lose sludge particals. I did just enough to get oil to flow in dry valves. Hopefully the Auto-RX can breakdown the rest.
Isn't your timing belt separated from your valvetrain by a cam seal? On Honda engines and all timing belt engines, the belt will never come into contact with the engine's oil unless there's a problem with your gasket. Even then, it wouldn't be due to sludge, it would simply be due to the fact that oil is coming in contact with your belt.
Isn't your timing belt separated from your valvetrain by a cam seal? On Honda engines and all timing belt engines, the belt will never come into contact with the engine's oil unless there's a problem with your gasket. Even then, it wouldn't be due to sludge, it would simply be due to the fact that oil is coming in contact with your belt.
I know that this is an old post, but I just wanted to point out that sludge was the cause of the timing belt jump. While there would likely be no sludge on the timing belt itself, the hardened sludge in the original poster's engine eventually prevented valve train movement, which is what caused the belt to jump.
I'm a little over 300 miles into my first Heavy Sludge Application, and I noticed that on the very first day of application I noticed a smell coming from engine. It's like a burning rubber odor.
Is this odor normal in the cleaning process of heavy sludge with the Auto-Rx product? Has anyone else experience this?
Auto-Rx is all natural possible you spilled some on outside of engine, odor would be strong, until it is burnt off. Auto-Rx can,t hurt anything either in your engine or outside.
Yes I replaced PVC valve, Oil, Oil Filter, & cleaned the breather hose and all other hoses. Plus I have no oil leaks. I just thought it might be the sludge being broken down by the Auto-Rx.
I did remove valve cover, to inspect and remove the harden sludge and replaced both gaskets for valve cover and spark plug tubes. There are no leaks, unless it's oil that might have spilled onto sides of block while removing valve cover?
