1) 1977-1983 Tailpipe Test 2) 1984-1995 Treadmill Test 3) 1996 or newer Plug into the computer.
The tailpipe test and the test where they plug into your computer are easy to pass. The treadmill test is very tough since they drive the car on the treadmill at certain rpm's.
update: approx 2000 miles into the clean phase I changed out the oil filer, the fact that the engine wasnt revving as smooth as I would have liked it to means that there is still some sludge that is in the motor and sure enough after changing the filter then engine was once again running smooth.
Are you going to do the maintenance program? I use 4oz at ever oil change I like to think the ARX 4oz maintenance dose as the extended warrenty for your.
I might once I complete the 3rd rinse phase. The fact that I had to change out the filter on the 3rd cleaning phase means that there is still some dirt/sludge left over in this engine. So depending on how often I have to change the filters during the rinse phase will decide weather I stick with the maintenance or a 4th clean/rinse phase
These engines produce so much inert material that Amsoil recommends NOT using their EAO on Toyota/Lexus applications. At least NOT for the 25k/one year interval.
It's Amsoil's premier filter that they brought out using Donaldson's patented SYNTEQ media process. It was designed to more match the extended drains that Amsoil offers with their lubricants. They found it a deterrent for the customer to change out the filter @ 12.5k with their 25k mileage intervals, so they came out with a 25k filter. It works on just about everything ..except Toyota/Lexus engines. You can use them just fine, but not for 25k. They don't even recommend using them at anything other than the prescribed OEM mileage.
I'd definitely be committed to doing the maintenance dose on these engines.
Here's the TSB https://www.amsoil.com/dealer/techservicesbulletin/Filtration/TSB%20FL-2009-05-01%20EaO%20Toyota.pdf
If I had one of these engines, I'd probably look for an oversized filter if it could be reasonably fitted. Your engine takes the PH3614/FL910/51348. If length permits, it should be able to take a FL400S/51516WIX/PH3600. Essentially double the length of your OEM.
Thanks, I rarely go over 4000 miles for an oil change and since I have been using auto rx i usualluy change out my filter atleast once during those 4000 miles. Thanks for the info!
I would not consider any kind of extended oil drain intervals until you can at least run 3000 miles without loading up a filter. Also, knowing that you have a sludge proned motor, means running a synthetic down the road for may be a 5000 mile interval, not any longer.
I do think the maintenance dose is a great idea in sludge proned vehicles especially, when finished with all of the cleaning and rinsing.
Had to change out the oil filter, car was not running as smooth as it normally should. I was 600 miles into the rinse phase. After I changed the filter things are running much better.
Well, you've got a telltale indicator for filter saturation. I guess you could continue to do Auto-Rx treatments until you don't experience the roughness that indicates the need for a filter change.
Well, you've got a telltale indicator for filter saturation. I guess you could continue to do Auto-Rx treatments until you don't experience the roughness that indicates the need for a filter change.
I wanted too point out that I have been bugging gs300 too change his PCV Valve which he finally did, he thinks it may have been the original PCV Valve, so it could have been on there for about 15 years.
I am not sure if a clogged or old PCV Valve could have been causing his issues.
Update: Finally changed out the pcv valve. Thanks Brent, for pushing me to change this inexpensive yet very important item. After I changed out the pcv valve, the engine seemed to rev much smoother and its the transmission shifts that were greatly improved!
Now this may not apply to your vehicle but let me tell you of my observations on the '95 Camry V6. This engine produces a lot of heat. If the oil change interval goes much beyond 3 or 4 thousand miles the standard issue nitrile (rubber) anti-drainback will stiffen up. For this reason I would recommend using filters that have a silicone anti-drainback valve when running longer oil change intervals. A filter with a silicone anti-drainback valve is easy to recognize. If the anti-drainback is any color other than black it's most likely made of silicone.
If you are not going past 4K then you probably won't need a filter that has a silicone anti-drainback valve to specifically combat heat issues. It's probably a good rule of thumb though that a premium oil filter will include a silicone anti-drainback valve along with filter media that offers a higher level of filtration.
There are many good brands of oil filters out there, not sure I have one I would specifically recommend over another. The only filters I would avoid are ones sold at the lowest possible price point for quick lube facilities. You want a filter that does more than just meet the minimal OEM specifications.
The car currently has 182292 miles on it and I went ahead and added 2 oz of auto -rx to my power steering. I took out once oz of power steering fluid before I did this, did not want to over fill it.
Frank, I know most people usually do 3 clean/rinse phases and then the maintanance dose. But if I wanted to keep going with the clean/ rinse phases, it can only be beneficial right?
Most people with heavily sludged motors do 3 cleaning and rinses. Some with heavily sludged motors may do 4. Average motors with high mileage normally require 2.
If you are still filling up oil filters after the third rinse phase, you have two options? Either do a fourth cleaning and rinse. Or go into a maintenance dose at this point. Inmstead of just running 2 or 3 fluid ounces of ARX, as the maintenance dose run 4 fluid ounces. At this level you should be not only preventing build up of sludge, but also continue to work on existing deposits.