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Post Info TOPIC: V6 Tundra application advice


Newbie

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V6 Tundra application advice
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I have an 06 V6 I bought used with 34k on it.  I noticed sludge on the filler neck and varnish on the timing chain.  I ran arx for 2500 miles @ 2 oz/qt. and now have a 1k on the rinse using Super Tech conventional.  I now notice a white waxy substance coating the filler tube and no change on the appearance of the timing chain.  Should I now run a second cleaning?  This vehicle did come off of a lease.  I suspect the oil wasn't changed regularly.  Any comments appreciated.  I plan to run Moto semi-syn long term.

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Guru

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Please read the application for sludge and the FAQ. You won't see any difference until your done the rinse mode.
This is where the rinse oil carries the sludge into the filter. What oil are you do your first cleaning with ?


Glad you posted here and hope we can get you to read the FAQ and print out the application for sludge. I have seen several altered Auto-Rx Applications posted on other boards with absolutely no credibility and it really is upsetting as these provocateurs could care less about you having success.

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Frank,
I will change out my filter and run another 1200 miles on this rinse phase.  Then I will follow with another cleaning/rinse phase.  I have been using Super Tech for the initial cleaning and rinse.  Is there any advantage to switching to something else for the next cycle?  This truck only gets about 500 miles/month put on it.  Longer term, I would like to use Motorcraft semi-syn in this motor.  I've had great success with 8k OCI on my '02 Sequoia.  That engine's filler tube and internals are completely clean at 75k miles.  And that's without runnng auto-rx. Although I did treat the tranny on the last flush.  Oil analysis on the motor oil shows I could go longer with wear metals running below unit averages.  Perhaps this  Tundra's V6 isn't as well designed.  Thanks

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I would stick with the cheap Super Tech oil as you will get your best results with an oil that does not have a robust additive package.

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You say that this truck doesn't see much use.

My advice; make sure you get it out on the highway every couple of weeks or so to get it nice and hot. If you only do city driving, that white buildup could be from the short trips. Also, make sure that you aren't losing any coolant.

And yes Supertech or any dino oil is the best to use.

-- Edited by Panthermike at 21:07, 2009-01-30

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I tend to agree with Mike. What you describe is classic oil emulsification due to not purging moisture via the PCV system.

Has your region been subjected to unusually cold(er) temps than you typically encounter this time of year?

I suspect, as does Mike, that if you took a decent length trip, you would find that emulsification gone.

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Well, I did take a 900 mile trip in early Dec.  Halfway through I drained the sump and started the rinse phase.  Two days ago I replaced the filter and decided to cut open both the cleaning phase filter (which I kept), and the rinse filter with approx. 900 miles on it.  After looking at the filter media I don't see how either one could have still been filtering!  Esp. the rinse filter.  The cleaning filter was a Denso 90915-20004 with synthetic media.  The rinse filter was a Super Tech.  I now have a Wix on the second half of the rinse phase.  Since cutting open filters is not exactly a hobby of mine I really can't say if what I saw is typical.  I suspect it wasn't because the media appeared to be coated with a waxy film.  Perhaps I should have gone with a larger capacity filter.  I wish I had more 20004's.  It appeared to be a superior filter to the Super Tech and larger as well.  Any recommendations?  As for the emulsification that makes since.  It has been an average winter and the truck hasn't been on any highway trips since Dec.  How critical is replacing the PCV?  I still have the original on my Seq. and it is used for lots of short trips.  And like I mentioned earlier the filler tube view is pristine.  I'm wondering if the V6 still has shortcomings like the previous sludge-prone V6.

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Replacing the PCV valve is usually an easy and cheap job, as well as cheap insurance.

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If you want to keep your car for a very long time, replace your PCV Valve every year.

This is what I do on my 1983 Chevrolet El Camino that has 367,000 miles on it.

I am going to change the PCV on my Marauder at 30,000 miles even though the owner's manual says to change it at 100,000 miles.

I plan on changing it every year on this car like I have on the El Camino.

A PCV Valve is such a cheap part that when it goes bad it can lead to many problems, some of them being very costly.

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Based on the amounts of contaminants found in the clean filter and even more during a short rinsing period, for sure you will need a second cleaning and rinse. After that I would go on to a 3 fluid ounce maintenance dose with the Motor Craft oil of your choosing. Varnish will dissipate over time. The actual working parts should be functional clean after the second cleaning and rinse.

I think I would run a couple of 4500 mile runs on the maintenance dose before extending it out.

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