The vehicle in question is a well-maintained 2002 Lexus ES300 with 156,810 km (98,006 miles) on the clock. The vehicle was bought new, but currently suffers from poor performance and excessive fuel consumption, so it was decided to give ARX a go.
The oil was recently changed using Lexus 5W-40 full synthetic, and I did not want to drain perfectly good oil. As all the magic happens in the rinse stage, I decided to add ARX to the existing oil and switch to Castrol GTX 10W-30 for the rinse stage.
When I pulled off the oil filler cap, this is what I was greeted with:
Even the filler cap has some sludge on it:
The pictures are not of the best quality, but you probably get the picture. I didnt really have enough time to pull the valve covers to take more detailed pictures with a proper camera, but I could scrape off the semi-solid sludge with my fingers. The sludge application will be followed, and the oil filter will be replaced at the 2,000 km (1,250 mile) mark. Once its replaced, both the oil and filter will be replaced after an additional 2,000 km.
For the rinse stage, I will be using GTX and replace the oil filter again at the 2,500 km (1,500 mile) mark and drive another 2,500 km before the application is complete. Once this is over, I plan to go with a second application only this time the basic one. Once that is over, I will run 4 litres of GTX and a quart of MMO before making the switch to Mobil 1 0W-40.
The whole vehicle is due to be treated with ARX, and Ive purchased two bottles, but I think a third will be necessary. The transaxle and differential share the ATF, and those will be treated as well and a cooler line flush performed. Power steering system will also be treated.
Sorry, should have pointed out that translates to 98,000 miles. I plan a sludge application, followed by a basic application. The final topping will be with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil mixed with 4 quarts of GTX for 5,000 miles before switching to Mobil 1 0W-40.
If you can remove the sludge with your fingers, then I don't think this will take too long to show decent results. If you can get cheaper filters, I think I would change the first one at 850km and see if it's loaded. The softer stuff may liquefy easily and saturate the filter in short order.
Falcon LS You have always been inquisitive and "ahead of the curve" that is why I am surprised to se you say in print you want to strip away your boundry lubricants. Please read this carefully and don't be swayed by posters elsewhere.
Detergents And Solvents Many of the older, better-known oil treatments on the market do not make claims nearly so lavish as the new upstarts. Old standbys like Bardahl, Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil, instead offer things like "quieter lifters," "reduced oil burning" and a "cleaner engine." Most of these products are made up of solvents and detergents designed to dissolve sludge and carbon deposits inside your engine so they can be flushed or burned out. Wynn's Friction Proofing Oil, for example, is 83 percent kerosene. Other brands use naphthalene, xylene, acetone and isopropanol. Usually, these ingredients will be found in a base of standard mineral oil. In general, these products are designed to do just the opposite of what the PTFE and zinc phosphate additives claim to do. Instead of leaving behind a "coating" or a "plating" on your engine surfaces, they are designed to strip away such things. All of these products will strip sludge and deposits out and clean up your engine, particularly if it is an older, abused one. The problem is, unless you have some way of determining just how much is needed to remove your deposits without going any further, such solvents also can strip away the boundary lubrication layer provided by your oil. Overuse of solvents is an easy trap to fall into, and one which can promote harmful metal-to-metal contact within your engine. As a general rule of thumb these products had their place and were at least moderately useful on older automobile and motorcycle engines of the Fifties and Sixties, but are basically unneeded on the more efficient engine designs of the past two decades.
Thanks for the input! I'll change the filter every 850 km instead of the original 2,000 - makes perfect sense.
Sludge, I'll see how the filter comes out. If it's clean, might as well go with the basic application. But if its loaded, best to stick to the sludge application. I reckon this will be a good way forward.
Falcon- If you pull the cover you will see what I mean. Spend the $10 for the seal and pull it. You are looking at the upper side of the baffle (no oil flow)....
ARX will work but do not base it on the pictures you posted. They show one thing and the valves etc are clean.
-- Edited by sludge on Wednesday 26th of August 2009 03:36:01 PM
